The lure of the loo: how restaurant bathroom design went wild

Plush or pared back, flatteringly lit or full-on disco camp, a TikTokkable loo is now part of the hospitality experience

Anthony Bourdain was typically forthright when it came to his expectations for the toilet facilities in a food business. “I won’t eat in a restaurant with filthy bathrooms,” wrote the late chef and author, in his seminal, turn-of-the-millennium memoir Kitchen Confidential. “This isn’t a hard call. They let you see the bathrooms. If the restaurant can’t be bothered to replace the puck in the urinal or keep the toilets and floors clean, then just imagine what their refrigeration and work spaces look like.” Setting aside the fact that, in later life, Bourdain softened his stance (“Some of the best food experiences I’ve ever had [have been in] places where they really don’t give a shit [about bathroom cleanliness],” were his words in a 2018 interview) his initial take tells us plenty about what the average customer historically demanded of restaurant restrooms. They needed to be clean. They needed to be functional. They needed, at a push, half-decent hand soap and the faint, reassuring waft of pine-scented floor cleaner.

Today, things could hardly be more different. Where once restaurant toilets tended to be a boring, unglamorous afterthought, in recent years, they have emerged as arguably the most unexpectedly attention-grabbing room in the building: atmospherically distinct sites of creativity and muscle-flexing design, where lavish amenities, bespoke lighting, custom soundscapes, selfie mirrors and all manner of other eye-catching flourishes abound, and are documented by social media channels, such as @LoosOfLondon (TikTok followers: 78k).

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